In 2022, Ireland’s population passed 5 million for the first time since the Great Famine. In the Gaeltacht, Irish is still spoken. After 150 years of emptying itself, the country is still asking what it…

Distant, ever more distant, far too distant and mythical Palermo. Everywhere and at every moment of my childhood I heard about Palermo as a mysterious place. The statements were always contradictory, astonishing, and frightening.